It's Spring at Fabricmart

I'm so happy to be back this month on the Fabricmart blog with my first spring projects, simple and lightweight black pants and a flowy and sophisticated print top.

Inspiration for sewing comes from everywhere and I'm thrilled (like everyone else) that I no longer have to organize stacks of torn out pages from catalogs and magazines but now can save anything that inspires me to my "I Wanna Make This" board on Pinterest, no papers, no mess.  And this outfit today is inspired by one of those pins.

The top is McCall's 7093, a brand new tunic pattern with different color block variations.  I made View A (without the slits) in this geometric viscose print from Fabricmart.

The top is a quick and easy sew and the only changes I made were omitting the slits in the front, taking in the sides 1/2", and adding black bias trim to the neck.  I used the wrong side of some black silk charmeuse I had in my stash.  It can be tricky to get bias trim to be even and I've found that if I ditch the pattern piece and make a free cut, I can have even binding. Here's how I do it:

1. Cut strips of bias at least 1" longer and 1" wider than the neckline pattern piece.
2. Fold fabric in half lengthwise and press.
3. Using a ruler and rotary cutter.  Cut the folded bias strip down to the desired width (see photo).
4. Cut bias same length as the pattern piece and add markings.

Yay!  Even bias strips = Even neckline trim.

I'm sure I will end up making this McCall's pattern over and over.  I always want to wear leggings but never have the right top to go over them.  Finally, I found the perfect blouse for leggings... longer in the back and shorter in the front.

The pants are from one of my "Tried and True" (TNT) patterns, Simplicity 1696.  Now, of all of my TNT pattern types, a pant pattern is most cherished.  A good fitting pair of pants is really hard to come by.

I've made these pants many times before, all with different variations, and this time I used this lightweight cotton twill from Fabricmart , deleted the slash pocket and added 4" to the length.  I ended up with a classic pair of pants that fill a gaping hole in my wardrobe. 

Spring has sprung and I couldn't be happier.  What's your first spring project?

And here's a gratuitous dog picture....he's my photography assistant!

Have a great day!  Diane - Gatorbunnysews

Simplicity 1696 - I Need to Make a Red Pair

Okay, so it's next to impossible to get a good detailed picture of a black garment (this is my third round of photos) but I'm posting this anyway. I love this pants pattern so in order to better share it with you I need to make a RED pair....don't you agree? Alright...you talked me into it. But until then, I'll give you the "skinny" on my new skinny pants.

I cleaned out my closet and found that, aside from jeans, I had two pair of pants! Yikes. I realize I spend a lot of time in jeans and skirts, but I need pants to put outfits together. No wonder I never have anything to wear. Let's face it, we sewists sew because we love fabric! We see something pretty, buy it, bring it home and make it....practicality aside. But there comes a time when we need to address the basics in our wardrobe. Simplicity 1696 does that.

This is my second Amazing Fit pattern (here's the first) and I don't know why I waited so long. Although approaching a pair of pants can be daunting, this pattern really helps. It comes in sizes 8-22 but in each size you can choose from slim, average or curvy fit based on the difference between your waist and hip measurements. I made a muslin in size 12 average fit (which folks, took less time than it did to find the pattern pieces....a pant muslin is always worth the time) and found I only needed to make an adjustment in the waist. Could it be true?

I added a fly extension to the pant front BEFORE I cut it out so I could use this fantastic zip fly application method. It's really well written but take note, this pant pattern has the fly on the opposite side of the tutorial so you need to mirror what you see in the tutorial. I also added real welt pockets instead of mock like the pattern calls for using this tutorial.

I have since made another pair without front pockets out of a very lightweight stretch denim and I love them even more! My hunt for red stretch denim is currently underway!

Here's my pattern review:

Pattern Description:
Misses' & Miss Petite pants slim pants have fly front, contoured waist band and front slash pockets. Individual pattern pieces included for slim, average and curvy fit.
Pattern Sizing:
Sizes 8-22. I made a 12 in the average fit.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions were easy to follow and did include some tips for fitting.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the fit. I made a muslin and the only adjustment I had to make was to the waistband and I can't say that's every happened to me before. The construction of the pants allows you to make final adjustments to fitting without having to take everything apart. It also has 1" seam allowances in key fitting areas.
Fabric Used:
I used a black stretch twill that has a comfortable amount of stretch (but I do wish it was a little softer)
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I added real welt pockets (instead of the mock that the pattern calls for), I added a fly extension directly to the front pattern piece before cutting it out and used a different fly zipper application method (so much easier). More info on my blog if you're interested.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I'm making a second pair now in a very soft lightweight stretch denim and hope to make a red pair.