Made by a Fabricista - Fall Icebreaker Shirtdress

I'm happy to be back on the Fabricmart Fabrics blog with my fall sewing icebreaker.  I'm finished with my summer sewing and looking to make some pieces for fall even though it's 104 degrees today.  Sewing a plaid wool skirt doesn't sound fun at the moment so I wanted something that would work on those all too frequent 90 degree October days when I don't want to wear a sunny yellow halter dress but a skirt and sweater will just make me cranky.  A transitional dress is exactly what I need.

Shirtdresses are all the rage right now and this JCrew dress inspired my first project for fall.  I've had this Vogue pattern in my stash since the early nineties (seriously....someone needs to give me some tough love about my pattern stash!) and it's perfect.  No need to buy a pattern and even better I'm justifying my stash.

For my shirtdress knockoff I chose a JCrew stretch cotton stripe shirting from Fabricmart Fabrics even though the inspiration dress is made of wool.  In my climate I can comfortably wear a wool dress exactly 3 times a year so cotton not only makes sense but is easy care, practical and comfortable.

The fabric was very easy to sew but like so many striped fabrics, I found the stripes would play tricks on my eyes when I was sewing.  I added a piece of painter's tape (it doesn't leave residue) on my machine at the 5/8" seam line making it easier to sew an accurate seam.

For the curved seams, I made an arrow across from the needle to mark where my fabric needs to land.  It's only important to line up the raw edge on the 5/8" line across from the needle not the entire way down the tape.  Thinking about it this way makes it much easier to sew a curved seam.

I had planned on keeping this project simple like the JCrew dress but as I was sewing I wanted to add some red.  Red buttons were too much so I decided on red corded buttonholes.  I took red pearl cotton from my stash and here's how I did it:

I flipped the buttonhole foot over and wrapped a length of pearl cotton over the back hook.

From the top of the foot I ran the tails of the thread through the bottom prongs to hold the thread in place then stitched the buttonholes just as I normally would.

After taking the work out from under the machine, I pulled the right tail thread through to eliminate the loop.

Lastly, I loaded the tail threads through a large hand sewing needle, pulled them through to the back and clipped them.  It's that easy!  It's these little details that make sewing fun!

I broke the ice for my fall sewing so what does your fall sewing plan look like?

Happy sewing....Diane at Gatorbunnysews.

It's That Time Again!

It's that time again!  The Fabricmart Fabricista Fashion Challenge is set to begin soon and they are looking for bloggers to join the challenge.  I had the privilege to complete in it 2 years ago (ahhh the memories here, here and here) and now it's your turn.  Visit the Fabricmart Fabrics blog for more details.  Entries are accepted through August 18.

Hey, if you don't enter someone else is going to be picked so hurry up and enter!  

Summer Sewing with TNT Patterns - Fabricmart Fabricista

I'm happy to be back this month with a summer Fabricista project and some exciting news...

There's nothing more rewarding for a sewist than having a TNT (tried and true) pattern you love to make, is easy to wear and versatile enough that you can make it over and over with great results.  I decided to set out and do just that:  design a line of modern patterns with friendly fully illustrated instructions that sewers could use to build their sewing skills, fill their closets and add to their TNT pattern list.  So with that, I'm excited to announce Blue Dot Patterns, my new sewing patterns!

For my summer outfit, I used one of Blue Dot's first patterns, the Dover Jacket which comes with two views. View A is short sleeved with a single button closure and view B has a 3/4 length sleeve, gathered bodice and a three button closure.

I chose a lightweight stretch denim from Fabricmart (sadly it sold out) would be perfect for view A because it would look great with some decorative machine stitching.

The cotton/lycra fabric I used is light, has stretch and a soft brushed face but the jacket would also work in quilting cottons, like this polka dot, twills and ponte knits.

Dover is a loose fitting jacket with raglan sleeves that goes together quickly.  I bound the jacket facing with bias I made using a bias tape maker and fabric from my stash (I think it looks interesting when the jacket comes open) and added strips of interfacing to the bottom of the jacket to stabilize the hem.

My "Details" Pinterest board was the inspiration for the topstitching.  After testing several different stitches on my machine, I ended up using a "dot and stitch" design around the edge of the jacket.

I debated on adding topstitched pockets to the front but after seeking the opinions of those around the house, I opted not to this time but I will the next time around.  I used a Burberry button I had in my button tin (I have no idea where it came from) to finish everything off.  I love it with the skirt but I also like that it can dress up a simple t-shirt.

For the summer skirt I used a Colette pattern I had in my stash.  The Ginger skirt pattern became a TNT pattern for me a couple of years back but it's been a while since she's been pulled it out.  The high waist silhouette lends itself to this bold stretch shirting from Fabricmart.  This cotton/lycra fabric is crisp and bright with a slight sheen and best of all, it's easy to sew.

I lengthened the skirt about 2" and added a cotton batiste lining but didn't change anything else.  This pattern has great instructions and would be perfect for a beginning intermediate sewist.

Thank you for letting me share my Blue Dot news with you and for all my Fabricista friends, the patterns are 40% off through the end of July.

Happy Sewing,

Diane at Gatorbunnysews.

Fabricista Border Print Dress

Once again I'm so happy to be a contributor on the FabricMart blog.  Here's my project for April:

When I was little, I loved when my mom took me to the fabric store in the pink building (by the way, my kids have never "loved" going to the fabric store).  I would go up and down the aisles with my hands outstretched so I could feel the fabrics.  My love for fabrics started when I was very young and I admit, I can get nostalgic about fabrics.

My mom was a sewer and I remember many of the things she made, but one blouse in particular really impressed me.  She took a design class at a local college when I was 7 or 8 years old and made a two color tunic with an ogee print at the neckline and on the cuffs.  I thought she looked beautiful in it! When I saw this cotton print on the Fabricmart website, it took me back to that blouse and I knew I had to have this fabric.

Border prints can be scary for sewers because we never know what to make with them aside from the typical dirndl skirt with the border at the hem.  When I saw this black and magenta ogee print with hot pink floral border I knew I wouldn't use it as a border on a skirt, but I would put it on the neckline....just like my mom did.

I used new McCall’s pattern 7119, view C, a maxi wrap dress with short sleeves.  I chose it in part because it has a neckband with a shape that would fit within the width of the border but also because a wrap dress is really comfortable.

It can be difficult to determine how much fabric is needed on a border print so a little extra is always a good idea.  I ordered 4 yards and used all of the border print (down to 2”!) primarily because the waist ties are very long.  However, I have plenty of black fabric left over to make another small project.

The dress went together quickly and the instructions were well written.  I chopped the maxi length to a midi length because making the dress go all the way to the floor would've looked heavy.  This pattern is a great choice for a beginning/intermediate sewist and certainly something I will make again.  

This is my first dress of the season and I'm looking forward to making it again.  Next time I'll make the sleeveless version because I know some hot weather is on the way.  

Do you have any summer dress patterns on your cutting table?  I'd love to know what you're making.

Happy Sewing!  

Diane - Gatorbunnysews

It's Spring at Fabricmart

I'm so happy to be back this month on the Fabricmart blog with my first spring projects, simple and lightweight black pants and a flowy and sophisticated print top.

Inspiration for sewing comes from everywhere and I'm thrilled (like everyone else) that I no longer have to organize stacks of torn out pages from catalogs and magazines but now can save anything that inspires me to my "I Wanna Make This" board on Pinterest, no papers, no mess.  And this outfit today is inspired by one of those pins.

The top is McCall's 7093, a brand new tunic pattern with different color block variations.  I made View A (without the slits) in this geometric viscose print from Fabricmart.

The top is a quick and easy sew and the only changes I made were omitting the slits in the front, taking in the sides 1/2", and adding black bias trim to the neck.  I used the wrong side of some black silk charmeuse I had in my stash.  It can be tricky to get bias trim to be even and I've found that if I ditch the pattern piece and make a free cut, I can have even binding. Here's how I do it:

1. Cut strips of bias at least 1" longer and 1" wider than the neckline pattern piece.
2. Fold fabric in half lengthwise and press.
3. Using a ruler and rotary cutter.  Cut the folded bias strip down to the desired width (see photo).
4. Cut bias same length as the pattern piece and add markings.

Yay!  Even bias strips = Even neckline trim.

I'm sure I will end up making this McCall's pattern over and over.  I always want to wear leggings but never have the right top to go over them.  Finally, I found the perfect blouse for leggings... longer in the back and shorter in the front.

The pants are from one of my "Tried and True" (TNT) patterns, Simplicity 1696.  Now, of all of my TNT pattern types, a pant pattern is most cherished.  A good fitting pair of pants is really hard to come by.

I've made these pants many times before, all with different variations, and this time I used this lightweight cotton twill from Fabricmart , deleted the slash pocket and added 4" to the length.  I ended up with a classic pair of pants that fill a gaping hole in my wardrobe. 

Spring has sprung and I couldn't be happier.  What's your first spring project?

And here's a gratuitous dog picture....he's my photography assistant!

Have a great day!  Diane - Gatorbunnysews

The 15-Minute Flannel

I'm glad to be back to Fabricmart's blog with my new cozy flannel.  Sewholic's latest PDF pattern, the Granville Shirt, is the perfect fitted shirt pattern to make a classic flannel shirt while still looking like a girl.  I used this soft plaid 100% cotton flannel from Fabricmart.  It's lightweight and dreamy to wear but it also holds it's shape like a good quality flannel should.

So...it didn't actually take me 15 minutes to make this shirt so why call it the 15 minute flannel, you ask?  Time being what it is in my life right now, I didn't have the opportunity to set aside large blocks of sewing time so I decided to make this shirt in short, 15-20 minute sewing spurts.

A shirt like this, with lots of details, is the perfect project to break up into smaller parts.  I found sewing this way made me take my time and focus on each part to be sure everything was done right.

In just 15 minutes or so I could do quite a few separate things:  apply interfacing and rethread the serger, add pockets and front darts, attach collar band and make collar, make sleeve plackets and sew side seams and set in sleeves.

Sewholic's patterns are geared toward the pear shaped figure which is quite refreshing for the sewing community.  I wouldn't consider myself a pear shape, so I took out some of the hip curve in the side seam.  You can see here it's pretty curvy!  The instructions have lots of drawings and well written step by step instructions which lends itself to sewing in small time increments.

The pattern uses mostly traditional construction techniques aside from the collar.  I was tempted to use my usual collar application but I decided to stick right with the instructions (I know...yay for me for following directions).  The collar band and collar band facing are attached to the neckline of the shirt first (like the photo above), then the collar is attached to the band.  This is the first time I've ever seen this in a collar and I had to read it a few times to get it.  The collar band and facing are then stitched, right sides together from the tip just to where the collar starts.  After turning the collar band right sides out, the collar is sewn to the band and slipped in.  It worked great and it made topstitching a breeze.

I made three small changes to the shirt.  First, I cut the pocket, sleeve cuff and back yoke on the bias, second, I made the collar band facing and cuff facing out of contrasting fabric (polka dots because what could be better?) and lastly, I used pearl snaps instead of buttons and that made it easy and fast.

This Granville pattern is a perfect wardrobe staple  It makes up great in casual flannel but it would be beautiful in a floral voile or classic in crisp white broadcloth.  I'm sure I'll be making it again soon.

This is likely my last winter project and now I'm off to thinking about spring sewing.  What's next for all of you?

My photographer is back from college for the weekend.  Isn't she cute!