Dover Jacket Sew-Along #2 - 8 Things Every Sewer Should Know

We are on to day #2 of the Dover Jacket Sew-Along and today we are prepping to sew.  By now we have gathered together our pattern, fabric and notions and we are ready to go. Today we will print the pattern, tape it together, pin, cut and mark our pattern and apply the interfacing.

Start by printing out the test square page of the Dover pattern package, page 29, to verify your printer settings are correct.  Be sure the printer is set to print at "actual size" and not "fit to page".  When your printer settings are verified, print pages 11-40 for just the pattern pieces or all pages if you want a hard copy of the instructions.

Taping together a PDF pattern can be daunting but really it's a whole lot faster than finding time to get to the fabric store and pick up a pattern OR a lot less expensive than having it shipped (I'm not going to even get into the instant gratification a PDF offers.)  I have a tutorial here on the fastest way to tape together the PDF.

After everything is all together, cut or trace the pattern on the size you have chosen and pull out the instructions for View B.  Blue Dot Patterns have separate instructions for each view of the pattern. Follow the pattern layout for the width of fabric you are using and pin all pieces down making sure to keep grainlines parallel to the selvedge and "cut on fold" pieces along the fold of your fabric.  Cut all of the pieces out (but keep your pattern pieces pinned on to your fabric.)

Sewing skill #1:  Marking Pattern Pieces

This is an essential step and in my experience as a sewing teacher, the one that students most want to skip.  I can tell you, taking the time to mark your pattern now will save lots of heartache and time in the end.  There are a myriad of ways to mark and I'll show you a few here.

Notches:
The short lines along the edge of the pattern are called "notches".  On most commercial patterns, notches are triangle shaped but on Blue Dot Patterns they are simple straight line 1/4" long.  To mark, take the end of your scissors and clip just to the end of the line.  In addition, be sure to make a clip at all center fronts and center backs of any project (see photo on the right). These clips will help you line up the pieces throughout construction.

Tracing paper:
One way to mark stitching lines, darts, pocket placement, buttonhole placement or any number of markings on the body of a pattern is tracing paper.  It's a method that's been around forever and the supplies are really quite inexpensive.  You'll need tracing paper (paper with chalk on one side, sold by the package) and a tracing wheel.  The wheels come either smooth or serrated.  I find the serrated leaves a more visible line than the smooth but you definitely need the smooth wheel for delicate fabrics that could be damaged by the serrations.

To mark:  Place the tracing paper chalk side down on your fabric and under your pattern piece.  Take your tracing wheel and firmly run the wheel along the marking lines on the pattern.  For Dover, this method works well for buttonhole markings and topstitching lines.

Chalk:
Another option for marking patterns is chalk.  It comes in lots of forms including pencils and squares.  I will be showing the Chaco Liner.

To mark the topstitching lines and buttonholes, measure how far in the marks are on the pattern and using a ruler, transfer the marks to the fabric by rolling the liner along the ruler.  Often times, this gives a sharper mark than tracing paper.

Sewing Skill #2 - Interfacing

What is interfacing and why do we want to use it?  Interfacing is a stabilizer that is added to a fabric or garment to provide structure or stability.  We need it in many places including: shirt plackets, collars, facings, hems and anywhere fabric needs to be shored up.  It comes in different forms but are primarily divided into fusible (iron on) and sew in.  Both are used for different reasons but whenever I can use fusible, I do.

Cut facing pattern pieces out of interfacing and cut interfacing strips 2 1/2" wide for the hem and 1" wide for the sleeve.

Using a light iron, place the bumpy side of your interfacing pieces down on the wrong side of the facings, lining up the edges evenly.  Place a pressing cloth or thin piece of fabric over the interfacing and iron gently on the cloth.  It's best to use an up and down gentle motion with the iron (pressing) as opposed to pushing down and moving the iron back and forth (this can make your fabric stretch and your interfacing move).  The strips of interfacing for the hems will be used later.

If you have questions, leave a comment and I will do my best to answer them.

Whoo-hoo!  We are done for the day!  Day #3 of our Sew-Along will be on February 19th.  See you then!  

Dover Jacket Sew-Along #1 - 8 Things Every Sewer Should Know

Welcome to the Blue Dot Patterns Dover Jacket Sew-Along!  Today is part #1 of a 4 part series.  Today we will be talking about selecting fabrics, gathering supplies and choosing pattern size.

Fabrics:

Well, for me this is usually the best part!  The Dover Jacket is pretty versatile therefore you are able to use a myriad of different fabrics (maybe even something from your stash, which is always a good thing!)  The recommended fabrics include: ponte knit (my fabric of choice for the sew along), raw silk, linen, lightweight wool, quilting weight cotton, and light to medium weight denim.  Check out my Dover Sew-Along Pinterest board for lots of other options.  For View B you will need 2 1/3 yards of 45" fabric OR 1 5/8 yards of 60" fabric.

Solid or almost solid fabrics would work really well if you want to focus on the topstitching.  Here's a dot denim and an ivory ponte knit from Finch Fabrics that would be great for topstitching:

These linens from Fabrics Store would be perfect for spring paired with some really great buttons:

Fabricworm quilting cottons would sew up well for a fun jacket.  And aren't we always looking for a reason to use these print fabrics?

Notions:

 We will be making The Dover Jacket View B so we will need: 

  

1 yard of fusible interfacing

Three 1" buttons

Thread to match or contrast (depending on if you do a contrast topstitch)

The interfacing will be used on the jacket facing and the hem.  Iron-on or fusible interfacing works well.  I typically choose a knit interfacing because it adds stability while keeping the drape of the fabric.  Pellon type interfacings work on stable wovens but be sure to keep them lighter weight than the fabric itself.

On my jacket I used 1" denim covered buttons from my stash.  There are only 2 because that's all I had and they looked so great (and I've been dying to use them) I couldn't resist.  It's my sewing party so I can can make some changes, right?   This is the perfect time to use those funky buttons you love but can't seem to find a project for.

Pattern Size:

The back of the pattern lists both body measurements and finished garment measurements.  To choose the correct size for you, measure your bust at it's fullest point and compare it to the body measurements chart.  This is the size you should choose.  If you are in between sizes, size up.  When you compare the body measurements to the finished garment measurements you can see there's 2" of ease built into the bust 9" of ease at the waist.  If you prefer more space in the bust be sure to size up.  After all, this is your jacket.

Okay, collect your PDF pattern, fabric and notions and let's get ready to go!  

Day #2 of the Sew-Along is February 16th and we will begin prepping to sew.  

See you soon!

8 Things Every Sewer Should Know - Join the Dover Jacket Sew-Along!

February is the time when I'm racing to finish up winter projects and at the same time looking ahead to some spring sewing.  It's not quite time for short sleeves but it is a good time to brush up on our skills in preparation for spring projects.  And if you're a new sewer, now's the time to learn some good foundational skills that'll launch you "armed and dangerous" into your new hobby.  So... join us for the Blue Dot Patterns Dover Jacket Sew-Along....8 Things Every Sewer Should Know.

The Dover Jacket View B is a loose fitting, 3/4 length sleeve jacket that is a versatile wardrobe builder.  It goes together quickly and is a great project for the beginning/intermediate sewist.  You will learn 8 basic sewing skills that'll not only make your garments look professional but will also help your garments go together more quickly and easily.  If you are new to garment sewing, this would be a great sew-along for you!

Here's what we are going to learn:

1. Marking fabrics - 3 different techniques
2. Interfacing - why we need it and and what kind we need
3. Gathering - how do I get them even?
4. Clipping - why?
5. Understitching - what is it?
6. Topstitching - "man, this makes things look better"
7. Making Buttonholes - seriously, you can do it
8. Sewing on Buttons by Machine - aren't you relieved it can be done?

Here's the schedule for the sew-along:

February 12 - Day #1: Selecting Fabric, Supplies and Choosing Pattern Size.
February 16 - Day #2: Preparing to Sew: Put Together the PDF, Cutting, Marking and Interfacing.
February 19 - Day #3: Constructing the Body of the Jacket: Gathering, Clipping and Understitching.
February 23 - Day #4: Finishing up: Topstitching, Buttonholes and Sewing on Buttons by Machine.

Here's the Sew-Along Badge if you'd like to add it to your blog:

Okay....let's get ready.  I can't wait to see what you make!

Georgia Sew Along - Sew It Up in Two Hours!

I'm happy to bring you the Georgia Top Sew Along!

 The Georgia Top is a versatile knit top pattern you will make over and over.  She's gonna be your best friend AND you can make her in under TWO hours! Here's a sew along with full color photos to help guide you through and you'll learn everything you need to know to get begin sewing on knits.   The Georgia PDF pattern is on sale for just $6 through the end of September so grab your copy and make yourself make a new sweatshirt!

Blue Dot instructions are fully illustrated and divided into areas of construction or steps.  Working on one area at a time takes the mystery out of garment construction and helps you learn how to sew.  For example, when you finish the "Neckline" construction, you'll know how to construct a neckline on any basic t-shirt pattern, with or without instructions.

Georgia has 4 major steps: Bands, Neckline, Body and Finishing  

4 steps....easy peasy, right?

Okay....are you ready to have a new top in under two hours?  

Here's what you'll need:

• Georgia PDF Pattern View A by Blue Dot (printed and taped together).
• Knit fabric (1 3/4 yards of 60" fabric)
• Basic notions: scissors, pins, measuring tape, etc
• Ball point machine needle (for knits).
• A chick movie that's under 2 hours (because you'll be done before then!)
• Optional for straight hem:  twin needle for knits, spray starch.

Some things you should know before we get started (and before you sew with any knits):

You don't need a serger to sew with knits.  Certainly it can make it easier and faster but I'm here to tell you, and more importantly show you, how to do it with your regular machine. All knits are different so every time I start a project I make a test swatch to see which stitch works with my fabric.  After putting a ball point needle in my machine I try different stitches:

1. The top stitch is the knit stitch built into my machine (#6 on the left).  
2. The middle stitch is a basic zigzag 2.0 wide and 1.5 long.
3. The bottom stitch is the overcast stitch built into my machine (#4 on the right).

The overcast stitch gave me all of the stretch and recovery a serger would so that's the stitch I went with.

Pattern layout and cutting:

 I decided to make my Georgia a tunic length so I added 3" to the hem of the front and back pattern pieces and hem the bottom instead of adding a waistband.

I used a navy and white stripe mystery knit I bought on my trip to the NY fabric district. It's the weight of a ponte knit with great recovery (it bounces back to shape after it's stretched).  Because I used a stripe I took the time to line up the stripes before I laid the pattern pieces on the fabric (see below). 

Pin your pieces down (using the layout in the pattern), cut them out and mark the notches with a 1/4" clip from your scissors at each notch, center front and center back. 

Notes about sewing:

All seam allowances are 1/2". 

RST (means "right sides together" or pretty sides of the fabric facing each other).

Now you're ready....here we go!

Step 1:  Bands

With RST, stitch armbands and neckband ends together forming a circle.  Press bands in half.

Step 2: Neckline

With RST, stitch front to back at shoulders.  Press seam toward the back.

With RST, pin neckband to neckline matching center fronts, center backs and notches to shoulders.  

Stitch in place, stretching neckband to fit. 

Tip: To make your neckband even, be sure the distance between the left edge of your foot and the fold of your neckband are equal. 

Step 3: Body and Sleeves

With RST, stitch front to back at side seams.  Press seam toward the back.

With RST, pin armband to arm, matching notches and underarm seams.  Stitch in place stretching armbands to fit.

Step 4: Finishing (yes you're already there!)

I'm leaving the waistband off and opting for a straight hem.  If you add the band it attaches the same way the neckline did.  Most people are afraid of hemming knits but follow these steps and you will be an expert: 

• Fold up desired hem width (mine is 3/4").
• Spray the hem with spray starch and press (this keeps your knit from moving out of place).

• Place the twin needle in your machine.
• Put two thread sources at the top of your machine (most machines come with an extra spool holder you can attach to the machine and an extra bobbin works great as the second source of thread).
• Treat both threads as one and thread the machine.  Put one thread through each eye of the needle.
• From the right side of the fabric, stitch hem in place.

It looks just like a store bought top!

With your twin needle, topstitch the neckline 1/8" from the neck band.  Repeat for the armband.

It looks great!

That's it guys!  You're done!  I bet your chick flick hasn't even ended!

I'd love to see your finished Georgia.  Send me a pic.

Enjoy your sewing....and your movie.

Diane

I've Got Georgia On My Mind

I just got back from a whirlwind trip to NYC for my husband's show in Chelsea.  The weather was crazy, the city was busy but I still found it all so inspiring.  Far and away, my favorite part of the trip was seeing my husband's paintings on the walls of the gallery.

Often, he invites me out to his studio at our home to look at paintings while he's working on them.  I look forward to his invitations because I love watching the process of creating a new body of work and dodging globs of paint on the studio floor.  But the best part is when the time comes to view the paintings up on a wall, well lit and in a beautiful space.  And as a bonus...no paint on my shoes!

"Beauregard"

I was able to steal a selfish couple of hours to "drive-by" the fabric district, City Quilter and M&J Trimmings.  A few pieces of fabric found their way home with me as did some ribbon trim.  All in all however, I didn't go crazy buying too much but I did come home energized to sew.

Some "Beauregard" inspired fabrics from City Quilter

Don't ask me how it happened but I went to NYC and came back with Georgia on my mind.  I found a couple of really fun knits in the fabric district and decided it would be fun to do a post on my Georgia Pattern and show you how I make it in under 2 hours!

This sounds like a great time for a sale so I'm putting Blue Dot's The Georgia Top PDF pattern on sale at 50% off, yep that's only $6 until the end of this month!  You can check out my patterns on Etsy, too.  Yay!

So my friends, grab yourself some knit and the Georgia PDF pattern and let's make it together.  I'll be posting my "Georgia In Two Hours" post next week on the blog.  I hope you'll join me!